Victoria Falls – Explore The Smoke That Thunders

Zambia,Zimbabwe
4 comments

Chasing Waterfalls

Scottish missionary and well-known explorer, David Livingstone stood on the small island in the middle of the falls – now known as ‘Livingstone Island’ in Zambia – and looked on at the roaring curtain of water bustling over the cliff. ‘Victoria Falls‘, he named it, in honour of his Queen. We thought we’d take a closer look ourselves at ‘Mosi-oa-Tunya’ – the indigenous name for the falls, literally meaning the ‘Smoke that Thunders’.

Here’s what we saw:

Victoria Falls is one of the seven wonders of the natural world and is on The World Heritage List – so probably worth seeing, right? It might not be the highest or widest waterfall on earth, but it is the largest, based on the fact that its width is 1,708 metres and height 108 metres. You can access it from either the Zimbabwean side or Zambian. On the Zimbabwean side, the falls are always flowing, even in the dry season, while the Zambian side is much drier and less impressive during dry season, but better and wetter in high water season.

For more information about when to visit, click here and on the Falls in general, here!

Our Favourite Vic Falls Places To Stay

  • Royal Chundu – Here you will stay right between Victoria Falls and the Chobe National Park on the mighty Zambezi River in Zambia. Stay in either the River Lodge or Island Lodge. It’s about 70 kilometres from the falls but is luxurious with great service, accommodation and attention to detail.
  • Tongabezi – This five star property was the first ever river lodge on the Zambian side of the Victoria Falls, about 30 kilometres upstream from Victoria Falls and 18 kilometres from Livingstone.
  • Toka Leya – This property is tucked away on the banks of the Zambezi River in the western sector of the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, about 12km upstream from Victoria Falls. It’s a Wilderness Safaris’ property and has a great focus on being eco-friendly, for example by recycling water, using a worm farm, having their own greenhouse, running tree-replanting project and more.
  • Royal Livingstone – On the edge of the Zambezi River, this hotel is the closest accommodation to Vic Falls on the Zambian side (you even have your own private entrance to Devil’s Pool).
  • Victoria Falls Hotel – At this hotel, situated inside Victoria Falls National Park, you can enjoy the luxury of having a private footpath leading directly to the entrance gate of Vic Falls. From the front lawn of the hotel you can see along the second gorge to the bridge over the Zambezi River with the spray from the waterfalls wafting up behind. Classic, colonial luxury.
  • Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma – Exclusivity and luxury are big here at this upmarket five star Sanctuary lodge, named after David Livingstone’s faithful friends. There are two spacious cottages, both of which take full advantage of their river bank setting.

Jump in - we dare you!

Don’t Miss Devil’s Pool

Devil’s Pool on the edge of the Victoria Falls is located along the Zambezi River on the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe. It’s adjacent to Livingstone Island, where David Livingstone first saw the Victoria Falls and remarked: “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”.

When to go: At its peak flow around June, a mile-wide chasm 100m straight down is filled with the roar of water falling at a rate of 3,000 tonnes per second. For most of the year, you’d be swept to your death if you entered the waters of Devil’s Pool. But from September to December, when the river flow is at a safe enough level, you can swim as close as possible to the perimeter within the pool without falling off. This is because the natural rock walls are more exposed and form a barrier, stopping you from being carried over.

Keen to jump into it? Find out more here!

Dive into Devil's Pool overlooking Victoria Falls

Keen to feel the spray of the mighty Vic Falls?

We can help you plan the perfect Victoria Falls vacation including exciting activities such as micro-lighting, white water rafting, helicopter flights and more. We are experts at building African itineraries and can easily combine a trip to the Vic Falls with a beach holiday or a Big 5 Safari. For more information, take a look at the Victoria Falls Tours and the Victoria Falls Accommodation sections on our website.

Just contact us to get the ball rolling… or the water falling, as the case may be. We can tailor make it to suit your every need and desire.

Zambia and Zimbabwe in four days

Zambia,Zimbabwe
8 comments

Day One

If I were to tell you that I recently visited an African border post and stayed there for four days, this might not invoke immediate feelings of jealousy. But if I told you that this border post had ‘smoke that thundered’ and left its visitors yearning for more after explorations in game parks and wild rivers, you may be more intrigued. And if I said that I recently visited the place that David Livingstone in 1855 called a “scene so lovely it must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight,” you might be more intrigued still…

Finally, if I told you I visited this place for four days, including multiple activities, you might even be fascinated at this point. I did in fact do all this – such is a visit to the mighty Victoria Falls.

Take a kayak down the Zambezi River

My partner and I departed from OR Thambo, Johannesburg, st 10:00am and landed at 12:00am. and However, while the flight was only two hours, getting through passport control on the Zambian side took almost as long, if not more! The Zambian government have recently upgraded their control procedure from snail’s pace to a tortoise’s sprint. It was painful!

I was so worried that our transfer from the airport to the hotel had arrived and left because we took so long in the queue.  To my surprise he was there and waiting for us. I found out later that all the hotels in the surrounding area are aware of the delay and act accordingly. The trip from Livingstone Airport to surrounding hotels is approximately 10 – 20 kilometres and can take up to 40 minutes depending on road quality and rains. By the time we checked into our hotel and sat down for a beer it was 16:00. My advice – if you are planning on doing anything on the day you arrive, only do it in the evening!

A rainbow shines by the bridge over the Zambezi River on the Zimbabwe side

We stayed in the local backpackers “Jolly boys.” I prefer the luxury options and have never stayed in a backpackers before, so was very skeptical going in… But was up for something different. I hired a private room, with private en-suite at US$50 per room per night. One need not think that the only affordable accommodation in Zambia and Zimbabwe are backpackers.

Prestigious hotels like the Elephant Hills Hotel, the Royal Livingstone and the Livingstone Protea Hotel often run great specials that are affordable – I just missed them. There are far more bars and restaurants on the Zambian side than there are on the Zimbabwean side. Therefore, if you are looking for a vibe, Zambia is the way to go. If you are looking for something romantic – Zimbabwe is the place to go.

You can spot giraffe from your kayak on the Zambezi River

Day Two

The next day we enjoyed a full day canoe trip down the mighty Zambezi River. We initially booked a white river rafting day (because it sounded so much more thrilling), but the river was still in flood and it was not possible. In my opinion, when I go back I’ll do the canoeing first again before I even consider white river rafting. We had such fun! You paddle 17 kilometres and it takes about 5 ½ hours, depending on how fast the river is flowing. There are two guides assigned to the group of six people – for safety reasons. One guide travels at the front, scouting for hippos and crocs, and the other is at the back to address any paddling issues and rapids.

We saw 10 different groups of hippos and 50 crocs before we stopped on an island in the middle of the game reserve for lunch – I was very appreciative for having so many guides all of a sudden! Before lunch we had also seen kudu, impala, giraffe, gemsbok, nyala and springbok. This reserve has been pillaged over the last few years due to illegal hunting and famine, so many of the game are shy and generally scarce. The reserve also has removed all cats (in an effort to preserve the game left), so if you are looking for a big 5 experience take a day trip to Chobe.

This strange bore was digging in the water for grub

Lunch was a feast with an assortment of finger foods and cool drinks and beers. After lunch we were lucky enough to spot a herd of elephant who had come down to the river to drink. They had a calf with them so we were weary to get too close. At this point I realised that no game driving experience would ever compare. We were viewing these wild animals in their most natural habitat, whilst actively participating in a sustainable and enjoyable activity that brought us mere metres from them. I’ve never felt more proud to be African. It was a beautiful moment.

Enjoy incredible African sunsets over the Zambezi River

Day Three

The next day we decided to visit “‘Mosi-oa-Tunya” or the “Smoke that thunders.” It’s a 10 kilometre drive to the border post from most hotels, and most accommodations offer a free drop off and pick up service. The road to the post was recently redone so it’s only about a 10 minute drive. After chatting with some of the locals, we discovered that it’s best to view them from the Zimbabwe side rather than the Zambian side. We got the relevant stamps and walked across.

Along the way we watched as many brave people bungee jumped off the bridge. Be wary of some locals trying to sell you old Zimbabwe monies as mementos. It is illegal to buy, and if you get caught you will either pay a hefty fine or could go to jail!

It's tough to take in the immensity of the Victoria Falls

To view the Victoria Falls from the Zimbabwe side you have to go into the Victoria Falls National Park. Just before you enter there are a few stalls that hire out rain coats for US$2. SPEND THE MONEY!

I noticed this when we arrived and asked my partner if we should consider hiring these coats, he said: “No, we are here at the mighty Victoria Falls, let’s enjoy and experience the smoke that thunders like Livingstone did.” I should have listened to myself and not to him. We were drenched from head to toe. It might as well have been raining. We were lucky we had a waterproof camera.

See the Victoria Falls from a different angle - up in the air

It is such a unique experience at the falls because the crashing and movement of the water is so loud you have to shout to one another to communicate. The National Park has a memorial statue dedicated to Livingstone that provides a historical backdrop of his experiences when visiting it for the first time and why it was actually named the Victoria Falls. The park is well signposted and there are maps everywhere so you need not worry about getting lost. There are 17 posts from where you can view the falls, and each view is completely different from the last!

Inside the national park there are wild animals. Baboons and warthog are the most common. It is advised that when you go into the park that you DO NOT BRING A BACKPACK, because there have been incidents where baboons have attacked tourists because they are accustomed to people having food inside their bags.

Fly over the mighty Victoria Falls and Zambezi River for unique views

Having seen the falls from the ground we thought we’d get a new perspective if we saw it from the air. I enjoyed a 15 minute helicopter flight (US$250 pp). This was so much fun, and opened my mind to the sheer size and majesty of this world heritage site. We flew over the falls, the Zambezi and both game reserves in Zimbabwe and Zambia. We saw a heard of buffalo and giraffe migrating from Zambia to Zimbabwe – it was fantastic!

To top the day off we went on a sundowners booze cruise. It lasts 3 hours, departing at 16:00 and returning at 19:00. From the comfort of a couch and a gin & tonic in hand we saw countless wildlife animals on the banks of the Zambezi. The staff on the African Queen were friendly, inviting and very generous with their double shots!

The booze cruise is a definite highlight

The booze cruise allows you to relax and take in stellar sights

Day Four

The next morning, we left for a quick game drive before heading back to Johannesburg at 14:00pm.  The game drive was great and the ranger knew everything relevant to the national park. But as I mentioned earlier there are no cats and we had seen this reserve quite in depth by this point with the canoe trip, helicopter flight and booze cruise.

Our game driver suggested we visit the Livingstone Crocodile and Amphibian Rehabilitation Centre. What great advice! It costs US$10 to visit and it’s something one wouldn’t normally think to do but it is a 40 minute eye opener and is for a good cause. All crocodiles and snakes that become too large or pose a danger to tourists and locals are captured and relocated here. The rehabilitation centre receives little or no funding from the Zambian government, and relies completely on tourist donations.

The Livingstone Crocodile and Amphibian Rehabilitation Centre is a must

Without this centre these animals would surely die or be released into the Zambezi River. The staff at the croc farm are truly passionate about the work they do and have a great relationship with the animals they protect. So much so that our guide jumped into the crocodile pen and started playing with the 400 kg crocodile that was last fed a week before!

What a trip! I’m so sad it’s over – but I’ll definitely be going back!


For more information

To find out more about the great Victoria Falls, check out our blogs – such as about the daring Devil’s Pool and more here. Also visit the Zimbabwe and Zambian sections on our website for all you need to know about tours and accommodation.

Contact us and we’ll help you plan your own trip to this incredible part of Africa and answer any questions you might have!

Dive into Devil’s Pool

Zambia,Zimbabwe
4 comments

An infinity pool with a difference

I have to say… I’m not sure I would do it. I’m getting the creeps just writing about it.

It’s called Devil’s Pool and for some madman reason, people love to hang half off the very edge of it or even dance and do back flips right by the rim. For thrillseekers, it’s the ideal dare.

It’s a rock pool at the edge of the world’s highest waterfall, Victoria Falls, also known as Mosi-oa-Tunya (the Smoke that Thunders). The falls are one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At its peak flow around June, a mile-wide chasm 100m straight down is filled with the roar of water falling at a rate of 3,000 tonnes per second. For most of the year, you’d be swept to your death if you entered the waters of Devil’s Pool. Instantly.

But from September to December, when the river flow is at a safe enough level, you can swim as close as possible to the perimeter within the pool without falling off to a nasty death. This is because the natural rock walls are more exposed and form a barrier, stopping you from being carried over.

You're going to want to get this on camera!
Got the balls?

So would you?

Would you jump on in and be ripped to the edge at stomach-churning speed to just inches from the rock lip where the Zambezi River’s fierce waters  crash over the edge?

Yes? Well here’s all you need to know, below… And if no, you’d rather sit and watch, it’s still a magnificent view and will probably make your heart race even from metres away. Enjoy the fine spray of the Victoria Falls, which rises like a cloud across the bushveld, throwing rainbows hundreds of feet in the air.

Where is it?

Devil’s Pool on the edge of the Victoria Falls is located along the Zambezi River on the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe.

The Vic Falls are the highest in the world
The beautiful abyss

Getting there

Devil’s Pool is adjacent to Livingstone Island on the Zambian side of the Zambezi river. This is where David Livingstone first saw the Victoria Falls and remarked: “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”. To get to Livingstone Island you take a motor boat from the landing at the Royal Livingstone Hotel. On the island you rock jump for some distance and swim through the river to a point where you can leap from into the pool.

Safety

Jumping into Devil’s Pool is not for sissies. It should only be done in the drier months September to December and only at the main point. It requires an adventurous spirit and decent swimming ability. There is a safety line to hold onto when you’re swimming to get to Devil’s Pool in case the current is too much for you. It’s essential to take a guide with you. See our accommodation options below as they offer guided trips.

It's a thrill of a lifetime hanging on the rim and looking down
Our office mermaid, Billy

Accommodation

Two places we suggest staying at, since they’re closest to the Vic Falls and offer guided trips there, are:

Royal Livingstone Hotel – On the edge of the Zambezi River, the Royal Livingstone Hotel is the closest accommodation to Vic Falls on the Zambian side and an excellent destination when visiting Victoria Falls. All guests staying at the Royal Livingstone enjoy free and unlimited access to the Victoria Falls, which is less than a five minute walk away.

Zambezi Sun – The hotel is right on the Zambezi River within earshot of Victoria Falls.

For a list of other accommodation near Victoria Falls, on both the Zambia and Zimbabwe side, click here.

Not into bunji jumping? Try this!
Wish you were here

Find out more

We at Rhino Africa are experts on Victoria Falls. Many from our Team here have made the dive into Devil’s Pool and spent a good deal of time exploring the region.

Read David, our adventurous leader’s blog about the pools and what he thought here.

Feel free to contact us to find out more about the Devil’s Pool, Victoria Falls and tours and accommodation in the area. Find a list of tours we recommend here. We can also help you tailor-make one, to include the African destinations you’d like to.

Yellow Fever Vaccinations now required for travel to Zambia

Zambia
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Urgent Travel Update!

Travellers between Zambia and South Africa require a Yellow Fever Vaccination.

If you’re planning on visiting Zambia, whether to see the Victoria Falls or for a walking safari in South Luangwa National Park, you’ll have to comply with a new regulation recently passed.

Travellers from South Africa to Zambia and travellers from Zambia to South Africa will now require proof of the Yellow Fever vaccination.

In-transit passengers, irrespective of the time period in-transit, will still require proof of the vaccination.

The new ruling comes into effect immediately, but there will be a grace period which we think will be until 1 July (We await final confirmation from the Department of Health).

You will be required to have the vaccination a minimum of 10 days before arrival, however the vaccination is valid for 10 years.

Zambia is the latest country to require Yellow Fever Vaccinations countries in East Africa such as Kenya and Tanzania have required the same vaccination for many years. Yellow fever is a viral infection transmitted by mosquitoes.

From Mountain to Waterfall, Now Direct thanks to Zambezi Air!

Cape Town,Zambia
0 comments

What do the the Mountain that is flat like a Table and The Smoke that Thunders have in common? And no, it is not a riddle…

STARTING June 30, Zambezi Airlines will introduce new flights connecting Cape Town directly with Livingstone and on to Lusaka, Zambia. And why would do we feel like sharing this? Well, because it means it is that much easier to get from the breathtaking Mother City, Cape Town, to the spectacular Victoria Falls… no more flights via somewhere else!


Flights from Cape Town are scheduled to operate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays and will depart at 08h00, arriving in Livingstone at 11h10. Flights will then depart Livingstone at 11h55, arriving in Lusaka at 12h55. The return service will operate on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, departing Lusaka at 12h15, arriving in Livingstone at 13h15. From Livingstone flights will depart at 14h00, arriving in Cape Town at 17h10. Connecting passengers between Lusaka and Cape Town, in both directions, will not be required to disembark in Livingstone and baggage will be tagged through to the final destination. Flights will be operated by a B737-500, configured in 99 economy seats and 12 business-class seats.


With this good news in mind, I suggest you click your way through to our website and have a look at the destination page for Victoria Falls, Cape Town and perhaps even our Vic Falls-Cape Town tours section for a little inspiration. Once you have drooled and marveled and whet your appetite sufficiently, contact one of our expert travel consultants and book your adventure to these incredible destinations!

Today is World Water Day!

Botswana,Cape Town,Indian Ocean Islands,Namibia
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The 22nd of March is World Water Day and in South Africa, a country where water is scarce, it is also National Water Week from the 21st to the 27th of March. Without water, without one Oxygen and two Hydrogen atoms connecting, we wouldn’t be here. Water covers 70% of the Earth’s surface and is vital for life, between 78% and 60% of the human body is made up of water (depending on age and sex). Just think about that – the person you love is predominantly water… So you can’t help but love this remarkable substance.

At Rhino Africa we appreciate water; after all, it makes our safari experiences better than ever. In Zimbabwe and Zambia we have the remarkable Victoria Falls created by the Zambezi River and when in flood, it’s the largest curtain of water in the world. It’s a sight to behold, trust us on this.

World Water Day - The Victoria Falls
Then there’s the Okavango Delta, fed each year by flood waters from upstream, the Okavango is the lifeblood of Botswana and it is here that the greatest number of wildlife gather, attracted by the abundance of H20 and the nourishment it provides. There’s so much water in the Okavango that the best way to see the game is by navigating the waterways on a Mokoro canoe, a traditional vessel created by carving out the insides of a massive log.

World Water Day - The Okavango Delta
Our hometown, Cape Town, just wouldn’t be the same without its fantastic beaches and of course Robben Island. Speaking of islands, the Indian Ocean Islands of Mauritius, Reunion, Madagascar, Maldives and the Seychelles owe their remarkable beauty and attractiveness to the Indian Ocean. The warm waters are teeming with fish, making it the perfect place for snorkeling, diving and all manner of water-sports. Or perhaps you’d prefer just to kick back on the beach with a cocktail?

World Water Day - The Indian Ocean Islands

There are few places that appreciate water more than those where it is not in abundance. Take Namibia for example and the Kalahari Desert. Here desert adapted wildlife goes about its day in search of water. They travel vast distances and are able to go days and sometimes weeks without it.

World Water Day - Namibia
Of course the desert animals are the exception to the rule, we need water, we all do. We need to conserve it, protect it and we certainly shouldn’t waste it. When you’re on safari pay attention to how much water you use, try and minimize the number of towels you send to the wash and don’t flush anything terrible down the toilet! You can also help by making sure that you choose lodges and hotels that try their best to conserve water, water their gardens with recycled grey water and just generally treat our most fundamental resource as it should be. A bath is a real treat on holiday, but just be conscious of how scarce that resource is, particularly in the wilderness.

World Water Day - Kalahari Desert
At Rhino Africa we work with the lodges and hotels that make a concerted effort to conserve and protect, not only just water but all natural resources. Sustainable tourism isn’t just a buzz word round here, so contact your Rhino Africa consultant for a safari that appreciates all aspects of life in Africa.

Johannesburg, Victoria Falls, Chobe – Part II

Botswana,Namibia,Safari,South Africa,Zambia,Zimbabwe
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Sam continues her fantastic holiday…

After Imbabala our trio became a sextet and Karen, after leaving the lodge in her staff’s capable hands during a quiet few days, along with her friend Jane and Lucy joined us for our next adventure.

Hwange was our next port of call, but we had a 2.5hour road transfer to get through first, yet it allowed us to get to know each other better and the time just flew, especially as our driver (booked through our fabulous transfer and activity representative in the area Wild Horizons) kept us informed at all points of interest and alerted us to expected driving times as the journey progressed, so the trip was very pleasant. In no time we had made our arrival and began what was to be the next 3 nights at Hwange Safari Lodge.

Hwange Safari Lodge must have been a shining star in its time. Its entrance, which when at its prime, must have been an architectural feat, is imposing and grand, but sadly the lodge has lost its lustre and is seemingly barely ticking on. It was actually heartbreaking to see the hotel looking past its best as the staff are all so keen to work, serve and to be needed and it is glaringly evident that when the hotel was at its busiest the staff were impeccably trained. Even though they needed not to be enforced due to the lack of guests, systems are still in place, which in a busy hotel would have been crucial to sustaining smooth service. This to me shows pride and respect by the staff even though many others in a similar position would have packed up and left.

The lodge needs work, a lot of it and there is little luxury here, but we had a BLAST!|

Johannesburg, Victoria Falls, Chobe - Part II

 

Hwange is famed for its “Presidential Herd of Elephants” which are protected under Mugabe’s rule and are habituated towards humans, but are essentially still wild. I had never been as close to a wild Elephant before as we were at Hwange. At one stage Billy who was next to me in the game viewing vehicle, almost landed in my lap when a Matriarch elephant decided to investigate the new visitors to her domain… so funny yet also something I will never forget and probably never experience again in my life.

I need to mention though that the lodge did have the most wonderful pool area, set above the watering hole which is frequented daily by Ellies, young and old, herds of buffalo and troupes of Monkeys and Baboons, where we spent a full day relaxing, reading, laughing, enjoying “Duo Salads” and impressive quantities of Gin and Tonic.. What more does one really require at the end of the day…?

We also saw Leopard, Sable Antelope, Cheetah, hundreds of Buffalo and too many Ellies to mention as well as a melange of general plains game, so even though the accommodations let us down somewhat the game viewing (which is why were we essentially there in the first place) was actually very good.

We also visited the Painted Dog Project, which is the only conservation study of its kind in the world devoted to the preservation of Wild Dog. What a wonderful facility and what makes it even more admirable is that they have created a learning centre to educate the local school children, so that they can learn at an early age all about conservation and environmentalism and hopefully make the right choices when they are adults.

Our 3 nights whisked by and we were headed to Victoria Falls for just one night. No surprises to hear we stayed at the grande olde lady Vic Falls Hotel (of which all 6 of us had all previously had the pleasure of visiting before) so this was more a return to what we already knew we all loved. It is a landmark in itself and is in my mind the best hotel at the Falls. The superb staff… (yes, it had been this way the whole trip already but it is true and you can feel the passion exude from most attendees of Zimbabwean origin), the manicured lawns, views of the Bridge over the Zambezi and the wonderful food served us well and we were so sad that we only had the one night.

Johannesburg, Victoria Falls, Chobe - Part II

After settling in to the room Billy and I were very excited to be heading off to view a new property that had just opened up in the area and we made time to go give it a squizz….. No rest for the wicked is too true!

Elephant Camp is a safari lodge inspired luxury (yes real luxury) tented camp located half way between the Victoria Falls Airport and the Vic Falls themselves and it is situated on a stretch of land offering uninterrupted bushveld scenes and views of a number of Zambezi gorges. Oftentimes (we are told) the Elephants are viewed from the decking drinking at the watering hole down below.

WOW, we were blown away! Light beige tented units stood before us which each offered all the mod cons one expects from a luxury establishment. Indoor and Outdoor Shower, bath, loo with a view, air-conditioning, minibar and even your own plunge pool… yes it sounds amazing and it is. I am so happy we found the time and even though they had no guests in-house on that day all the staff was impeccably turned out and ready for business. Happy to hear we were tour operators and were mentioning how keen they were to invite our guests, so we left knowing that any clients we sent here would be happy.

The camp is located on the same property as the Elephant Interaction centre, which offers the Elephant Back Riding etc, so we quickly went via the centre to see a group of guests getting their welcome drink and lecture before embarking on their Elephant Back Ride. How surprised was I to see that I could get a chance to actually touch these previously orphaned Elephants…  Nothing in this world is comparable to the feel of an Elephants skin, with its wrinkled texture and occasional coarse black hairs sprouting out sporadically… Phenomenal!

But we made our way back to the Vic Falls Hotel in time for dinner and we dined in at their “Jungle Junction” restaurant, which is a buffet style meal served in their open-air restaurant. We were treated to a show, consisting of dancers, musicians and the most beautiful costumes all donned by willing participants and performed to show life relating to the differing local cultures. It was a great accompaniment to a delicious meal and is highly recommended.

Billy and the rest of the team opted to go “Gorge-Swinging” on the morning of our departure, but I felt the room was too good to leave any earlier than was logistically required and I treated myself to a leisurely lie in. My decision was aided by the fact that during my previous visit to the hotel I did the White water rafting, which is as extreme as I was going to get, but I did it and I felt no need to push it on this trip to suspend myself on a rope hundreds of metres above the ground… and then jump…. no thanks!

Sadly we parted with the 3 ladies and the original party of me, Billy and Hans, headed off to what was probably the highlight of the trip for our final 2 nights.

How does this sound?  2 nights aboard a 5 star-luxury houseboat which is moored on the Chobe River, with on board fine dining, game drives, sunset cruises, suites with private decks and a plunge pool filled on request…. Sounds good? It was BETTER!!!!

Zambezi Queen

It was 2 nights aboard the Zambezi Queen – our final two nights. It takes a little patience to actually get on to the boat as we had to exit Zimbabwe, enter Botswana, exit Botswana and enter Namibia… all taking a couple of minutes each at the respective immigration offices, as the boat, although based on the Chobe River, is officially a joint Namibian and Botswana property (the River forms the boundary again) so many stamps and even a special red carpet on the Kasane jetty later we were on a tender boat (purpose built for the Zambezi Queen) and we were offered a cold beer within 10 seconds of taking our seats… they seemingly read all three of our minds as we had developed quite a thirst after the logistical intricacies and if this was a sign of things to come, they were onto the perfect start.

Zambezi Queen

Jetting off towards the boat, we were all eager to get our first glimpse of the floating “house”. You can imagine our responses when we had seen a massive heard or Elephant and Buffalo as well as hippo out of the water on an island in the middle of the river and were so busy taking photographs, we almost missed that the ZQ was just out of shot and was actually moored at a spot which was surrounded by these animals. A professional or photo-shopped brochure could not better have advertised the boat at this point!

Zambezi Queen

I acknowledge that I am getting a little long winded, but within 20 minutes of being on board and having met each and every staff member on arrival, they were all calling us by our names when offering snacks, drinks, activities etc or when enquiring how we were doing. This was so unique to the rest of the trip and it made such a lasting impression. The boat is stunning. Fresh and natural decor with a very neutral palette (since everyone just keeps their eyes on what is happening outside to be true) and wonderfully appointed suites. Each suite has its own deck area, with sliding doors and mesh screens, which meant we did not have to close the doors to the outside the entire trip without fear of being bitten by an enterprising mosquito.

Johannesburg, Victoria Falls, Chobe - Part II

Our sunset cruises were very special, the game drive into the park was wonderful (some logistics again to get to the park, but all worth the effort), but what stood out was the food. Felix the chef is an accomplished chef and is food was amazing. Each meal is paired with a different house wine and he never failed to provide something special at each meal and makes the fluffiest and lightest pastries I have ever had in my life.

Overall the boat was a wonderful experience that I hope to share with future clients who are ready to spoil themselves for a couple of nights when travelling to the area.

Our day of departure was sad in that the 11 nights had literally flown by and we were headed home, but when a boost is needed we are lucky to have the memories made, laughs shared and photos taken that will easily whisk us back to this fabulous trip… that is until we get a chance to go back! Who’s game???!!!!

Zambezi Queen

Johannesburg, Victoria Falls, Chobe – Part I

Botswana,South Africa,Traveller's tales,Zambia,Zimbabwe
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What a trip! Good friends, great memories, innumerable laughs and unforgettable moments!

Last month my colleague Billy and I got to enjoy an 11 night trip of our own. We were to experience 2 nights in Johannesburg, 7 nights in Zimbabwe and 2 nights on the Chobe River.

Not expecting too much from our first 2 nights in JHB, the experience was memorable for so many reasons. Having only travelled through JHB Airport en route to other destinations both locally and abroad, I had expected the “large mall type lifestyle” and busy 4 lane highways, but boy was I pleasantly surprised. I found very friendly people, quaint local culture at sidewalk bistro’s and cafe’s and beautiful tree-lined residential suburbs within the sprawling metropolis.

We began the trip by entering JHB on the newly launched “Gautrain” which is JHB’s answer to London’s underground or New York’s subway. What a pleasure. It was speedy (12 minutes to Sandton), clean and so easy to use with staff around to assist with the purchase of tickets and at the stations to answer any questions. We were collected at the station by our friendly driver who escorted us to the wonderful hotel awaiting our arrival.

Born in Africa

The Marion on Nicol is a boutique hotel which has been recently opened (to a full house during the FIFA World Cup) and we realised that the pictures we had seen and its website did not do it justice. This was even better than we had expected… and trust me, we had very high expectations to begin with……

No expense has been spared, the decor is beautifully plush and inviting, the staff friendly and professional and the rooms so very well appointed.

Imagine my delight at finding ultra-luxe “Bulgari” amenities in the bathroom…… Word has it that diamonds are supposed to be a girl’s best friend….. I disagree!

Larry, the ever-present and so charming GM showed us around the property with pride. We were enthralled. STUNNING! The location is ideal too being just a 10 minute drive (complimentary in their in-house luxury shuttle of course) to Sandton Centre, so you are close to everything but not in the midst of the hustle and bustle of Sandton life. The property is expanding its gardens into the surrounding properties, recently bought by the owners, to extend and offer a “wetland” vista to be enjoyed from your room’s balcony.

That evening we, reluctantly, abandoned our decadent accommodation and headed out into the great unknown that is JHB and experienced all that was on offer… with gusto!

Our first morning in JHB, albeit a little heavy headed after enjoying the JHB nightlife, was spent on a tour of the “Apartheid Museum” and Soweto arranged by our preferred tours and transfer company in JHB, namely RNS. The charming Solly looked after us with aplomb and was incredibly knowledgeable. What a truly fulfilling experience. Billy and I were moved to tears…. all I can say here is that I feel it is vital for everyone staying in JHB to visit our largest township and especially the “Apartheid Museum” during their trip. Here you will find the story of South Africa… who we were, who we are and who we aim to become……

The second night in JHB was to be spent at the stately Westcliff. We arrived, checked in and were ferried off to our suites in a golf cart which winds its way up the curved path towards the top of the hill which houses the entire property that is Westclif. The higher we went the more it felt as if we had somehow been transported to France and were approaching our very own chateau! The views from the rooms are amazing, you can see JHB Zoo in the foreground and Sandton in the distance. The property sincerely is a haven of tranquillity.

Lunch became quite an affair at the Polo lounge where we languished at a table next to the huge infinity pool and relaxed with a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc whilst watching the sunset over JHB before returning to our suites that one could cartwheel in and with baths that one could swim laps in. That night was to be a quiet night as the following day involved an early start and some travelling and we are responsible adults after all…..

After what turned out to be very little sleep, we met up with Hans who was to join us for the remainder of the trip. We were now the “3 Muskateers” incarnate. Admittedly there was a little rushing around to make flights and transfers, we landed at the Livingstone Airport (flights into Zimbabwe were full at time of booking) and were collected for our road transfer into Zim. We were headed to a lodge called “Imbabala”. Billy has always had a soft spot for the property since a treasured friend, Karen, now manages the lodge and both he and Hans had visited before… so I was the newby…..!

Imbabala is a safari lodge, located on the Zambezi River in Zimbabwe just this side of the Botswana Gazungula border crossing, offering game drives, boat cruises and fishing. Its location is breathtaking as you walk into the main lodge area and all you see is Zambia in the distance across the Zambezi River which forms a natural border between the two countries, you can smell the fresh bread cooking in the kitchen and you can hear the unmistakable call of the African Fish Eagle. This is a comfortable lodge with no airs and graces or bells and whistles but offers all you need to enjoy a truly African safari. What makes this lodge special though is equal doses of wonderful home-style cooking and the most incredible staff and service. Nothing is too much trouble… “Ask and ye shall receive” is surely the mantra that is instilled in all staff and it is very noticeable.

Born in Africa

We spent 3 nights here. Bliss!! Our time was spent on game drives, cruising up the Zambezi River and making good use of the pool loungers “rejuvenating” around the pool with a good book, the warm sun on our faces and a cool gin and tonic in hand. Sitting back and letting others do all the work can be so tiring! Nights were spent around the fireside, sharing stories and laughs with the other in-house guests. On one of the 3 evenings, our after dinner tales were rudely interrupted by a cacophony of loud roaring, squealing, trumpeting and galloping, as a herd of Elephant, a Lion, some Hyena and Buffalo decided to have the most unruly spat just 100m (tracks spotted the following morning verified) down from where we had just minutes before been sitting. No words can aptly describe the intensity and the feeling of adrenalin coursing through our bodies that evening……. Only in the African bush!

Follow Sam’s exciting adventure tomorrow, when we’ll post Part II…

Photos and text by Sam Myburgh

Livingstone Island and the Devils Pool – Vic Falls

Doing Good,General,Honeymoon,Traveller's tales,Zambia,Zimbabwe
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People sometimes think I am crazy when I tell them I have a pretty defined set of goals and objectives I would like to achieve during my lifetime, so you can imagine the looks I get when I rattle off my list of the top 50 things I want to do before I die.

While I still have some way to go, I have been extremely fortunate to realize a number of my Top 10 already, including walking with the Lemurs in Madagascar, Tracking Gorillas in Rwanda, visiting the top of the Alps to see Mont Blanc (granted I took the cable-car up Aguille du Midi), visiting Stonetown in Zanzibar and photographing wild dog in Savuti.

So on a recent trip to Vic Falls, I jumped at the opportunity to walk across the back of the falls and swim in the “Devils Pool”.   The Devils Pool is a small pool on the rim of the horse-shoe falls that allows you to lean over the edge watching the water fall towards the boiling pot below – the pictures should give you a pretty good idea.

Having always visited the falls in high season, (Jan through Aug) this activity has never been possible, so when we arrived in Vic Falls last week to find the water levels low enough to partake in this activity, naturally we jumped at it.

Swim high above Victoria Falls, Image Credit: Michael Baynes

The walk commences on the Zambian side of the falls, and takes a good two to three hours.  If you staying at any of the Zambian or Vic Falls hotels, your concierge will be more than happy to arrange accredited guides to take you on the tour.  There are various options available, depending on your budget, from the basic tour, which includes the guided walk and swim, a bottle of water and a beer or soft drink to celebrate (US $ 35 per person) to the full Monty that includes breakfast or lunch on Livingstone Island.

With one and half legs, I managed the trip quite easily, and the reward of swimming on the very edge of the falls more than makes up for the slippery rocks, and “rock jumping” that is required to get you across to Livingstone Island.


The allure of Devil’s Pool lies is in its unique location, Image Credit: Livingstone Island

So if you reasonably fit, looking for a life changing adventure, that doesn’t require being thrown off a bridge attached to an elastic band, and just happen to be visiting Vic Falls between Sep and Dec, then pack yourself a decent pair of walking shoes, and join the adventure, I guarantee it will be something you will talk about till the day you die.

Of course as Victoria Falls Experts, you could leave all your arrangements to one of the Rhino Africa Experts, that will tailor-make your Vic Falls holiday around your specific requirements, just contact us.

Happy travels ….

Victoria Falls – Zimbabwe update October 2007

Doing Good,General,Traveller's tales,Zimbabwe
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In an effort to keep our valued clients updated on the situation in Victoria Falls, here is an e-mail received from Ross Kennedy in Victoria Falls, giving us an update of the situation on the ground.  Rhino Africa continues to support this magical destination, and as re-iterated by Ross’s comments; your tourism dollar in Vic Falls is much appreciated, particularly during these difficult times.

For more in formation on booking your holiday to Victoria Falls, contact us, or visit the Victoria Falls section on the Rhino Africa website.

“I am pleased to report that it is business as usual at Victoria Falls, which remains largely unaffected by the recent wave of press exposure on the country. The cause of the heightened exposure was a forced prices cut implemented nationally on 18th June. Interestingly Victoria Falls arrivals in July were 32% up on July 2006 and August continued the trend with a 26% increase over August 2006. In fact total occupancies in August were the highest of any other month for 5 ½ years.

The 25% year to date increase in arrivals account for about 40,000 more arrivals to the destination. Multiple press and trade reports continue to highlight that the tourism industry is increasingly separating Victoria Falls from the national difficulties and viewing it as a microcosm of its own.

Although times are very tough for everyone economically, the industry is still able to use its foreign currency earnings for procurement of fuel, food and beverages and the shortages publicized are not generally applicable in Victoria Falls. In addition supplies if needed are readily accessible across the neighbouring borders of Zambia and Botswana.

Victoria Falls continues to remain one of the safest places on the planet and whilst we understand that some clients have a moral dilemma, the counter argument is that their tourism dollar helps relieve some of the difficulties of daily living for the +/- 40,000 people employed directly and downstream through tourism.

Victoria Falls remains open for business and we continue to assure you that we will be the first to inform you if we believe that conditions are not suitable for travel.”

Happy Traveling,

The Rhino Team