Tag: Restaurants

El Burro Mexican Cuisine in Greenpoint Cape Town

Cape Town
2 comments
By Craig Harding on

The Horny Grazer Review
Four Rhino Rating
This is my first Horny Grazer review. Up until this post the Horny Grazer has been a one man gastronomic mission – guided by his taste-buds in search of the perfect plate. But he’s starting to bear the fruits of his labours around the midriff and we’re a little worried about his health. So in the interests of my colleague’s waxing physique and with my portly body in no immediate danger of expanding beyond its ample (but still devilishly handsome) boundaries, I have agreed to help out. Ultimate altruism? Someone has to.

Besides, when a restaurant of this caliber comes knocking, I’m not one to shy away from a good feed! The original Horny Grazer is a man of fine tastes. I like to think of myself more as an eater for the people (I normally eat for more than one) and a man of the people, well El Burro certainly is a restaurant for the people!

El Burro Genuine Mexican Cuisine and Tequila
While I won’t get into the political relations between Central American nations, the last time I visited this venue it was for Cuban cigars and whiskey at Buena Vista. This time it was margaritas made the proper way and Mexican food of the tasty traditional variety at the recently opened El Burro. From the moment I stepped through the door I knew I was going to enjoy this place. The venue is well positioned in Greenpoint right across the road from the Cape Town Stadium, which as you know from the World Cup, is a sight to behold. Close to the V&A Waterfront and a short distance down the road from one of our favourite Cape Town hotels, The Cape Royale, El Burro is perfectly suited to an evening sundowner before a night on the town in De Waterkant. Especially given that their tequila selection is as varied as most restaurants’ wine lists and their margaritas are magic.

They clearly cast a rather drunken spell on me, while my companions had arrived in a dour mood, I was all smiles. Good thing too that the staff are a friendly, smiling bunch, some of their enthusiasm eventually rubbed off and if they didn’t arrive with a smile my table mates certainly left with one.

Though none of their smiles could have been as wide as mine, because I’m certain, one hundred percent certain, that I ate (more like engulfed) the tastiest two courses on the menu. I made sure to taste the other dishes at our table and while they were good, in my opinion they didn’t match up to my starter of ceviche (R54) and my main of prawn with a mango salsa (which was the special that night). I have mentioned this ceviche to quite a few people since eating at El Burro and I’m often met with the same old question.  What is ceviche? Ceviche is raw fish marinated in citrus juice, spiced with a little chilli and if it’s done right it’s one of my favourite dishes in the world, although I’m the first to admit, my list of favourites is extensive. At El Burro they make their ceviche with the freshest fish they can find, and as you can imagine with the harbour only a stone’s throw away, that’s pretty fresh. A good vet might have been able to save the Yellowtail I had.

El Burro mexican restaurant in Greenpoint Cape Town
My palate suitably awake and lively and with my second… or was it third margarita in hand, I was getting involved in a rather heated debate about what exactly should make up traditional Mexican nachos. You see at El Burro they don’t serve greasy cheese covered nachos as they do in most ‘westernized’ Mexican restaurants, my table mates were furious, crying foul. I wasn’t concerned and they were just being grumpy for the sake of it. Nothing could have concerned me less because by then I had started on my plate of prawns served in a tortilla with a mango salsa. The freshest tastiest dish I could have chosen, after finishing my plate in double time I was feeling elated. It could have been the tequila talking.

The food at El Burro is pretty good – fresh, funky and simple; but I know there are a few small ups and downs on the menu. The roast pork soft taco (R66) dish I tried at our table was a bit dry, but then again it did get served with an assortment of additives, cream cheese, guacamole, re-fried beans – all the ol’ favourites made an appearance. I also sampled the Carne Asada, a butterflied sirloin marinated in chilli, lime and coriander (R85), it was delicious and will most likely be the dish I order on my next visit, although the traditional Chicken Mole (R80) may get the nod. The portions are also substantial, so a big guy like me won’t go hungry and anyone smaller can take home tomorrow’s lunch. Win.

Then there’s the great décor and chilled out vibe. Funky Mexican bits and bobs surround you. I kept expecting to hear that song from the film ‘Nacho Libre’ playing in the background. Instead I got Manu Chao on repeat. If there’s one thing I would change about El Burro it’s… hell I can live with Manu Chao just bring me more of that ceviche…

Mexican Cuisine in Cape Town at El Burro Restaurant
El Burro is on Twitter over here and on Facebook over here.

El Burro
81 Main Road
Green Point
Cape Town, Western Cape
021 4332364
Email: hola@elburro.co.za

The Planet Bar and Restaurant at the Mount Nelson

Cape Town
1 comment
By Matthew Sterne on

The Horny Grazer ReviewFive Rhino Rating
“The History of every major Galactic Civilization tends to pass through three distinct phases, those of Survival, Inquiry and Sophistication, otherwise known as the How, Why and Where phases. For instance, the first phase is characterized by the question ‘How can we eat?’ the second by the question ‘Why do we eat?’ and the third by the question ‘Where shall we have dinner?’” – Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy

A miraculous kiss of life for the Grande Dame of South African Hotels. First the Mount Nelson gave us the Planet Bar. Now welcome the Planet Restaurant in all its glory. Even Tatler magazine would be proud of this debutante.

Without doubt the most spectacular dining room in South Africa, the Planet Restaurant would give New York’s finest a run for their money. Only the shell and glorious original features of the erstwhile Colony Restaurant remain – the lofty, vaulted ceilings, arches and grooved columns will certainly leave you feeling like Lord Nelson himself (with limbs intact Inshallah). In fact, Lord Nelson could have made good use of the hand-bag rest that was brought to our table as we sat down. A classy touch.

Something dramatic was required to breathe modern and sophisticated new life into the Mount Nelson. This is it. Over R8million was spent refurbishing the restaurant. As the name suggests, there is a rather cosmic theme. The carpet was printed from a genuine image of the galaxy while the ceiling lights twinkle in an ethereal galaxy above. I love the fact that they’ve gone for a bit a theme – brave indeed among today’s homogenised offerings. And although a couple of things would not be out of place in Planet Hollywood, overall they’ve pulled it off with suave aplomb. They also have the most comfortable chairs in city.

Two tasting menus are available as well as daily chef’s recommendations. Commendably, there’s a “Vegan Journey” and a regular “Journey” menu both charged at R380 per person for a minimum of two people – six courses each. A very reasonable price compared to the other tasting menus around. Each wine recommendation for the tasting menu is priced separately so you can dip in and out of the pairing at your leisure. The wines are chosen by sommelier Carl Hubbel who bears an uncanny resemblance to Heston Blumenthal. There’s also an extensive a la carte menu. I’ve eaten here twice now – the first time I had the journey menu and latterly the a la carte.

Things get under way with a complimentary glass of Genevieve MCC and a few canapés – a very nice touch indeed and befitting of the occasion destination (so there’s no need to have a pre-prandial aperitif in the Planet Bar where a Martini will set you back R70).

The Planet Bar and Restaurant at the Mount Nelson

By far my favourite thing on the menu is the slow cooked free range egg with local cured ham, mature gouda and a pinotage reduction. The preparation is all highly scientific and none too riveting, but basically the egg cooks for thirty-five minutes so that yolk and white cook to the same silky smooth consistency. Very Italian. Very delicious. The ‘Tomato Variation’ with a tomato jelly, cloud, sorbet and basil was deftly presented and rather different, but probably not something I’d order again. Another recommendation is the duck and quail terrine with foie gras, date purée and green bean salad – rich and delicious.

The Planet Bar and Restaurant at the Mount Nelson

The wine list is extensive with a good selection of wines by the glass. It’s categorised by style of wine, such as ‘rich and concentrated reds’. Look out for ‘The Great Reserve Red Wines’ – an impressive selection of well aged South African favourites. We splashed out on a bottle of 1999 Mont Du Toit – a heady blend of Cab Sav, Merlot and Shiraz and definitely worth the R450. It really was exceptional and was the ideal accompaniment to the waiter’s recommendation – the flame grilled beef fillet with sautéed exotic mushrooms, potato foam and mini fondants. The meat was superb, but if I’m going to be critical, it was lacking in flavour for R170. The foam should have been a lot more earthy and the flavour of the mushrooms far more intense.

The cheese board was locally sourced and delicious if a little limited with only five cheeses to choose from. Pick of the puds was the Whiter Shades of Pale. A sort of deconstructed Ile Flottante and indeed out of this world.

The Planet Bar and Restaurant at the Mount Nelson

The Planet Restaurant is not cheap, certain things are great value, others are expensive – the wine list is certainly quite pricey (the cheapest bottle of Sauvignon Blanc is R215), but the specials and journey menus are good value and there’s also a decent price range (R65 – R165 for starters and R95 – R295 for mains) – so if you need to be frugal, you can be – but no abalone, crayfish and asparagus served with a crayfish velouté and smoked corn vinaigrette for you! I’ve no doubt the Planet Restaurant will go from strength to strength and take its place among South Africa’s elite. It’s perfect for a special event, so get thee there at warp speed…

The Planet Bar and Restaurant at the Mount Nelson
Visit the Mount Nelson Hotel page on our website
Check out the Cape Town page on our website

The Grande Roche Hotel in Paarl

Cape Town,Cape Winelands,South Africa,Traveller's tales
0 comments
By Matthew Sterne on

The Grande Roche is one of South Africa’s most famous hotels. It’s hosted no fewer than three of my good friends on their honeymoons (three separate couples that is – they were not a thrupple as seems to be the style of the times).

My folks have wanted to stay at the Grande Roche for a good few years now. What better time to visit just as the Bosman’s restaurant was voted into South Africa’s Top 5 Restaurants by Eat Out magazine?

We stayed for four days. Four days of unmitigated bliss. Surely one of the most relaxing spots on the planet – the grounds and gardens are immaculate. Vintage, straw-roofed, Cape Dutch manor houses amid vineyards, ancient oaks, billiard-table lawns, raffia palms and rose gardens. It’s an easy 45 minute drive from Cape Town and is in the heart of Paarl which itself is about 15 minutes from Franschhoek and Stellenbosch – the other winelands’ heavyweights.

The vibe is classical and elegant and the service is exceptional – warm, professional and personal. Not to mention rather easy on the eye. As well as local staff, there seems to be an emphasis on recruiting from the sommelier and hotel schools in Sweden. There are thirty five suites spread over the property in various listed out houses. It’s on the site of the old De Nieuwe Plantatie in the Drakenstein valley and dates back to 1717 when a grant of land was given to Hermanus Bosman. Over the years the homestead grew and changed and, in 1876, it was renovated to reflect the then popular Victorian style. The farm was bought and modernised by the Du Toit family in 1926 and after a fire in 1953 it was rebuilt as a Victorian manor house.

It was finally restored to its original Cape Dutch splendour in 1991 and transformed into a luxury hotel. In 1993, the fastidious restoration was acknowledged when the Grande Roche Estate was declared a national monument. The duplex suites for example are in what was originally the slave quarters.

There was a real Festive Season buzz in the air when we arrived. Beaming smiles and glasses of bubbly overlooking the vineyard and the mountains beyond were the order of the day as our baggage was whisked away to the newly refurbished rooms. It’s much like the Mount Nelson in this regard. The rooms were badly in need of an overhaul to bring them up to the standard of the grounds, restaurants and the service. Only the Duplex suites at the Grande Roche remain to be done, so just check that you don’t get one of these before they are refurbished. After that they intend to redo the poolside spa facility – the ‘Kraal’, which is certainly past its best.

The tome of a wine list and the exceptional cuisine will follow you around the property. Be warned though – the wine list is both extensive and expensive. Quaffing a decanted Bordeaux recommended by the sommelier (in crisp white shirts, with black ties and aprons) is a rather splendid occasion here, while culinary temptation lies behind every manicured hedge. Whether it’s a light lunch on your private terrace, a quick salad by one of the two pools (kept at 28 degrees no less), a relaxed dinner at the intimate Alegro Bistro or the tasting menu with wine pairing at Bosman’s, the gourmands out there should take note. Ambling from poolside to meal time, there is no better place to relax and unwind.

The Grande Roche is part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection, which includes some of the world’s finest small independent hotels.

If you’d like to find out more about the Grande Roche or plan a trip to the Cape Winelands, then contact one of our expert consultants who will be happy to help you plan a tailor made itinerary at prices that are cheaper than booking direct!

The Cape Winelands – Santé!

Cape Town,Cape Winelands,Traveller's tales
0 comments
By Matthew Sterne on

This week sees the launch of the Cape Winelands section of our new website, so we thought it fitting to do some wineland themed Blog posts (more wine than lands). Rather conveniently, Ross spent five days there over Christmas, so watch out for some top tips, including a review of the recently refurbished Grande Roche hotel in Paarl and a Horny Grazer review of Bosman’s restaurant – recently voted the 4th best restaurant in South Africa by Eat Out Magazine.

Cape Wine Route
“And I love to live so pleasantly, live this life of luxury, lazing on a sunny afternoon!”

Picture the family humming along to the Kinks’ melody, meandering along the vineyard clad roads of the Cape Winelands. Over our few days we certainly took advantage of our time by the pool at the Grande Roche, but we did venture out from time to time. Highlights included a trip to Franschhoek where we did some wine tasting at Chamonix wine estate (talk about a super quaffer – I can heartily recommend the Chamonix Rouge for just R38 a bottle) before a pretty good lunch in the courtyard at Reuben’s. The service was slack and the interior in need of a spruce up, but the food was still good. A starter of scallops with crispy pancetta served with a corn chowder was out of this world. Moroccan chicken was a little too sweet, but the cheese burger was excellent.

Another big winner was the gourmet picnic at Warwick Wine Estate near Stellenbosch (I think I should make this clear that we visited Warwick the next day) where we grazed unabashed, shaded by the leaves of the ancient Oaks and buffeted by bean bags, rugs and cushions. Of course we decided to do a little wine tasting there as well. Two whites and four reds. More swallowing than spitting – the perfect siesta inducing combo.

Cape Wine Route

Warwick make good wines. They’re extremely fruity and a bit overpriced for me but good wines nonetheless. We splashed out on a limited edition Black label Syrah which I can’t wait to try.

There’s also the most perfect gravel courtyard if, like me, you fancy yourself as a bit of master boules player. My dream is to one day make boules an extreme sport featured on ESPN. And yes, the boules are available for hire.

Collect your picnic and head out to your chosen spot with some fine wines. Forget your ham sarnies and scotch eggs. The picnic hamper for two without drinks is R299, but it’s well worth it and includes freshly baked ciabatta, camembert and oak smoked cheddar with an apple, pear and pecan chutney, sliced charcuterie with a biltong, mushroom and brandy pate or hummus as well as homemade rooibos and oak smoked Norwegian salmon.

Cape Wine Route

So there are a few cheeky tips from Ross’s holiday. What are your favourite Estates and favourite things to do in the Winelands?

Not only do we do day tours of the Cape Winelands, but we can tailor make an idyllic tour of the Cape Winelands incorporating some of South Africa’s finest hotels and restaurants, so don’t hesitate to contact one of our expert consultants today to plan your 2011 holiday!

Cape Wine Route

Reuben’s at the One & Only Hotel, Cape Town

Cape Town,General
1 comment
By Matthew Sterne on

The Horny Grazer Review

Chesney Hawke’s lyrics are the first thing that enter my head whenever I walk through the doors at the One&Only. It’s empowering. The Horny Grazy – nobody I’d rather be.

This time I was visiting Reuben’s, which recently replaced Gordon Ramsay’s Maze restaurant. A stalwart of Franschhoek in the Cape Winelands, this is chef Reuben Riffel’s first venture into the big city.

Horney Grazer review Rhino Africa Reuben's

Reuben Riffel, having been Executive Chef at another Franschhoek restaurant, Monneaux, left South Africa to gain experience in Europe. He returned, to open the eponymously named restaurant, in 2003. Reuben’s partners in Francshhoek are Marc Kent and Tim Rands of Boekenhoutskloof so these guys know a thing or two about wine as well.

With high hopes and expectations and an empty stomach I made my way through the remnants of Maze toward my table. The setting is in stark contrast to Reuben’s home base in Franschhoek. In true One&Only style everything is on a grand scale. We’re not in Kansas anymore.

Horney Grazer review Rhino Africa Reuben's

The service was excellent from the start. I was surprised to find the menu similar to the flagship restaurant but with one or two new flavours making an appearance and, as I gave it the once over, I couldn’t help but think, I’m the best man for this job!

Reuben’s is a welcome addition to the One & Only, offering a more relaxed and rustic dining experience in contrast to Nobu. Whether it’s the right restaurant for the space however is a different story. It’s a big, bold, modern space with dubious carpeting. Reuben’s is more homely.

Anyhow, to start I had the Patagonian chilli salted baby squid (R75). Tasty, although it could have been crispier and it culminated in a rather watery pool at the bottom of the bowl.

Horney Grazer review Rhino Africa Reuben's

When the recommended main arrived, I couldn’t help but consider the wise words of health fanatic Gillian McKeith – you are what you eat. I had the pork belly. It was served with chilli and caramel sauce, gingered greens, potato, apple and mustard crème and it was indeed excellent! It was R135 compared with R120 in Franschhoek. We’d asked for a red wine that would compliment the pork belly and the Sommelier suggested a 2008 Muratie Pino Noir. Perfection. And one of the best wines I have had in a while.

Realising that I can’t wear this uniform without some compromises (slightly forced reference there), the Methode cap classique and summer berry jelly added a wonderfully light and refreshing, sweet note to the evening of indulgence.

The evening was certainly enjoyable. Combined with one of the One & Only’s popular drinks specials, you’ll surely not be disappointed, but I do think Reuben’s is far more at home in the Cape Winelands than in the slick V&A Waterfront.

Horney Grazer review Rhino Africa Reuben'sReuben’s
One&Only
V&A Waterfront
Cape Town

Tel: +27 21 431 5222
E-mail: restaurantreservations@oneandonlycapetown.com

La Colombe at Constantia Uitsig

Cape Town,Cape Winelands,South Africa
1 comment
By Matthew Sterne on

The Horny Grazer ReviewFive Rhino Rating
“Or walk with Kings – nor lose the common touch.” Rudyard Kipling

The twelfth best restaurant in the world. You can imagine the bristling excitement of the Horny Grazer.

La Colombe is on the Constantia Uitsig wine estate in (perhaps unsurprisingly) Constantia. Constantia for all you non-Capetonians, is in the Southern suburbs of Cape Town on the back slopes of Table Mountain (about a 20 minute drive from the V&A Waterfront). It’s a beautiful estate acclaimed for its white wines – Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon in particular. What makes staying at the Constantia Uitsig Hotel so special however, is that Constantia Uitsig boasts three of South Africa’s top restaurants, each a short, bibulous stumble from the other.

La Colombe is the jewel in this rather impressive, oenophillic crown. It is perhaps South Africa’s most celebrated restaurant. The venue itself is understated. A rustic country cottage that leads out to a secret garden courtyard with vines and a myriad of other botanical curiosities clamouring for attention around the soporific, central fountain. But you won’t be falling asleep anytime soon as the super slick and knowledgeable team spoil you with treat after treat from the moment you sit down.

La Colombe

Three tapas style amuses bouche (you try and work out the plural) arrived as soon we sat down. Delicious and immaculately presented dishes that included a light kudu Carpaccio, pork scratchings with a sweet-chilli sauce and a hollowed egg shell resting on coarse sea salt in a wooden box. The egg shell was filled with the most delicious nectar I have ever tasted. A creamy soy concoction laden with plump bits of prawn. Soooo good.

I had every intention of taking it easy at La Colombe – starter and a main and one glass of wine from the a la carte menu. Of course, the moment I saw the Spring tasting menu, I knew it had to be mine. What’s that you say? With wine pairing? Oh, go on then…

I was staying in the hotel after all, so no driving to worry about. Staying over on a Saturday night is an excellent option. It’s a real indulgence and means that you can the go for Sunday lunch to the River Cafe. The ultimate foody’s weekend.

Never have I seen food so beautifully turned out. But not so delicate and fussy that you won’t know whether to eat it or dangle it from your Xmas tree. The food at La Colombe remains accessible.

La Colombe

And the service is just so wonderful. It’s polished and professional, but also warm, friendly, effortless and unobtrusive.

You’ll need to go and experience this for yourself, but here are just a few of my favourite things from the menu that evening:

Alaskan king crab, asparagus and truffle mousse, smoked salmon, orange, honey and mustard. Paired with a Rustenberg Roussane from Stellenbosch.

Terrine of duck: layers of foie gras, cured breast, confit leg and Jerusalem artichoke with a smoked lentil puree and bread crisps. Paired with a Cederberg Bukettraube.

Earl Grey Kit Kat, tapioca & Berry salad, Baumkuchen, belle rose sorbet and apple foam, paired with a Stony Brook natural sweet wine viognier.

The combination of flavours and textures in each dish was extraordinary. Clean and delicious. And best of all I got to try some grape varietals for the first time – Roussane and Bukettraube. Both new to me. Roussane originates in the Rhône region of France and is the only other white variety, besides Marsanne, allowed in the northern Rhône appellations of Crozes-Hermitage AOC, Hermitage AOC and Saint-Joseph AOC. Bukettraube is a fruity white from Germany (don’t mention the war).

Constantia Uitsig is the opposite of a health farm. It’s a fat farm – but it’s mighty good for the soul. La Colombe is without doubt the best restaurant I’ve eaten at. It’s a cliché, but it really is an experience. If you can, go for the tasting menu.

La Colombe

The Test Kitchen, La Colombe and the River Cafe

Cape Town,Cape Winelands,South Africa,Traveller's tales
4 comments
By Matthew Sterne on

Wow! Weekends like this don’t come around too often…

It all kicked off last Friday on the most beautiful summer’s day. Courtesy of Manley Communications, I was invited to dine at The Test Kitchen in the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock. It’s the latest offering by acclaimed chef Luke Dale-Roberts of La Colombe fame. 7 Courses paired with wine – an eating extravaganza.

The Test Kitchen

After a disastrous start to the Ashes, Saturday got under way with a straight sets defeat at squash (the low light of the weekend, but some much needed exercise all the same), before a light, half-price sushi lunch at Sevruga. Then it was off to the peace and tranquility of Constantia in the Southern Suburbs of Cape Town. We checked in at Constantia Uitsig just in time for the kick off of the England v South Africa game at Twickenham. Constantia Uitsig is such a picturesque estate – the immaculately kept grounds and gardens are instantly relaxing. It’s the ultimate destination for food lovers to come and unwind with three of South Africa’s finest restaurants on the estate – La Colombe (currently ranked as the 12th best restaurant in the World), River Cafe and Constantia Uitsig itself.

The Test Kitchen, La Colombe and the River Cafe

After a cheeky half at Peddlars pub and a comfortable victory for the Boks, there was just time to change for our dinner at La Colombe. Little did I know that I was about to enjoy the best meal of my life. Another 7 Courses with wine pairing. I was in my element.

Sunday morning kicked off with a hearty country-style breakfast at La Colombe – fresh berries, smoothies, cereals, croissants and juices followed by a tasty full English – a great way to celebrate England’s magnificent fight back in the Ashes – Alistair Cook you beauty! And an honourable mention for Strauss and Trott. It was only fitting that we took a draught down to the Constantia Uitsig cricket pitch to watch some local village action and read the Sunday Papers. Next up – a full body massage at the Constantia Uitsig Spa. Jealous yet?

The Test Kitchen, La Colombe and the River Cafe

A much needed stroll through the vineyards preceded some wine tasting (and buying) and the final indulgence of the weekend – a long, lazy Sunday lunch at the River Cafe.

A quick tally came to 22 courses in 48 hours (excluding some sneaky amuses bouches). Nothing tastes as good as thin feels. Except all 22 of those courses.

After some delicious cheeses and a tasty port, we reluctantly left Constantia Uitsig. I got home just in time to watch Spurs beat Liverpool in a thrilling finale to what was undoubtedly the best weekend ever.

Look out for the Horny Grazer reviews over the coming weeks…

The Test Kitchen, La Colombe and the River Cafe

Bombay Brasserie in the Taj Hotel, Cape Town

Cape Town,General
0 comments
By Matthew Sterne on

The Horny Grazer Review

Five Rhino Rating
“I believe that if ever I had to practise cannibalism, I might manage if there were enough tarragon around” James Beard

I’ve got to come clean here and admit that Indian food is not the preferred choice of the Horny Grazer. Perhaps a legacy of one too many rough Ruby Murrays in London.

I’m spice shy. I prefer to savour delicate flavours than to be blown away by heat. I have a very low threshold which, if exceeded, results in instantaneous hiccupping and nasal sweats. An unappealing combination even for a Labrador. And so it was with some trepidation that we made our reservation at the Bombay Brasserie in the Taj Cape Town.

Bombay Brasserie

But it’s worth making a reservation here for the design alone. Surely the most elegant dining room in Cape Town, the Bombay Brasserie combines contemporary design with the marble panelled opulence of the old Reserve Bank. Dark woods, white orchids, decadent turquoise chandeliers and the most lavishly upholstered and exquisitely embroidered imported arm chairs. Carried away by the colonial indulgence, I ordered myself a palate cleansing G&T (I’d recommend the lounge lobby of the Taj for a sneaky aperitif – it was the main chamber of the old South African Reserve Bank, now dazzlingly restored but retaining the splendid, marble columns and floors, and the lofty, domed ceiling complete with minstrel’s galleries.). Namaste.

The executive chef spent fifteen years at the Taj Mahal no less, so contemporary Indian fare doesn’t get much more authentic than this. I tend to find Indian menus a bit of a bore, so was thrilled with Hilton’s recommendation of the Maitre D’s four-course tasting menu with wine pairing. It’s not cheap (R395 for four courses or R575 for four courses with wine pairing), but if you want to get the full Bombay Brasserie experience, this is the most chakra pleasing way to do it.

Bombay Brasserie

I was absolutely blown away. It was such a treat to experience something new and unique. Obscure wines that one would never ordinarily order, masterfully paired with delicately spiced flavours. As exotic as Bengal Tigers.

To start, a remarkably delicious roasted yellow corn soup with tumeric popcorn. A dry, delicate flavour offset by the sweetness of the Klein Constantia Riesling. Good start.

Four courses was a little misleading as the second course consisted of three sumptuous pieces, each with its own wine. The Galouti Kebab is a superbly tender lamb kebab, apparently created for the nobles who preferred not to chew – paired with a light Dunston Merlot. The mustard infused broccoli finished off in the Tandoor oven was the spiciest dish on show and was beautifully complimented by a creamy Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc. Probably my favourite dish of the night was the Porchai Year (plump and spicy tempura prawns) served with the Paul Cluver Gewurtztraminer – absolutely sensational!

Bombay Brasserie

The third course (basically courses five through eight) was made up of the Murg Khatta Pyaz (Chicken Tikka with vinegar shallots) and Allepey Fish Curry (line fish in spiced coconut curry).

Dal Makhani (black lentils and kidney beans simmered overnight) and Lasooni Palak (garlic infused blended spinach) were the perfect accompaniments. And of course delicious basmati rice and naan bread (it wouldn’t be an Indian meal without them). Wines here included the Vin d’ Orrance Syrah with the Chicken Tikka; the Eagles Nest Viognier with the Fish Curry and an omniscient Paul Cluver Pinot Noir – a sensationally light Pinot that makes for a great accompaniment to most Indian dishes.

Pudding was a condensed milk dumpling served with Kulfi (Cardamom Ice Cream) which was far more delicious than it sounds.

Everything was immaculately presented, whether it was the soup in a traditional copper saucepan, the dry ice billowing pudding or the hour-glass served with the Taj blend chai. The attention to detail and knowledgeable, effusive service is second to none.

High tea is now served in the main hotel lobby where you might like to choose from one of the twenty-four traditional, Indian teas. If you’re looking for something rather stronger than tea, then head for the decadence of the cigar lounge with a devilishly tempting selection of post-prandial cognacs and a roaring log fire.

We opted instead for a white chocolate grappa to round off what was probably the best all round dining experience I’ve had for a very long time. Get thee there.

Bombay Brasserie

Bombay Brasserie
Wale St (between St Georges Mall and Adderley St)
Cape Town
Tel: 021-819-2000
Email: sales.capetown@tajhotels.com

Beluga Restaurant Cape Town

Cape Town,General
0 comments
By Matthew Sterne on

The Horny Grazer Review
Four Rhino Rating
1 Corinthians 13:13: And now these three remain: Sevruga, Beluga and Blonde. But the greatest of these is…

Even the mighty Corinthians would have had a devil of a time trying to decide between these three Cape Town institutions.

Each of Sevruga, Blonde and Beluga has a unique charm. One for every mood or occasion. Beluga was the final stop in the portfolio for the Horny Grazer. There’s a distinctly edgy, industrial feel to the location, tucked behind the pink strip in Green Point. The Foundry is a 100 year old red-brick building that once housed one of the city’s oldest metal works (and Rhino Africa HQ for that matter). Now converted into a modern interior design and office centre in the heart of Cape Town’s film and advertising district. There’s also a fantastic courtyard for summertime al fresco dining. It’s a huge, dark and brooding restaurant with a sleek and sexy bar that is still a favourite among Cape Town’s beautiful cognoscenti.

Thankfully they made space for Cape Town’s ignorant and less attractive patrons on a busy Tuesday night. As summer creeps up on the Mother City it’s about time for the Horny Grazer to shed the extra pounds acquired over the winter months in an attempt to avoid a harpooning on the beaches of Clifton and Camps Bay.

Beluga Restaurant

But not just yet! First we had a banquet to get through. My dinner companion and I are getting slowly further apart with every review dinner – wedging ourselves twixt table and tummy.

It’s an awful lot easier to write a derisory review than it is to be effusive. Platitudes grow tiresome and maudlin. Sadly however there is nothing really bad to say about Beluga. The wine list is perhaps on the pricey side, but it’s extensive so you’ll be able to find something to fit your budget. There are a few hidden gems. I was particularly excited to find a cheeky little Neil Ellis ’97 Shiraz for R220 – unfortunately 13 years was a bridge too far – DOA.  The cork simply disintegrated in the two bottles we tried before opting instead for a Rupert & Rothschild Classique for R230.

Beluga Restaurant

Aside from that little farcette, Beluga was as slick and polished as its Capetonian brethren.  Beluga is much vaunted for its Sushi and there is in fact a completely separate Sushi menu – we tried a few pieces and they were indeed delicious. Far too slimming for us though. We kicked things off with the Panko-crumbed calamari – probably not the healthiest option, but meaty, tender and delicious. Healthy though in comparison to the double-baked cheese soufflé, dusted with a fine biltong powder – now that’s my kind of starter.

Beluga Restaurant

Mains included a fillet of beef Rossini and a scrumptious beef Wellington. The beef was fantastic -perfectly cooked and rolled with duck liver pâté, puff pastry and a rich marchand de vin sauce.

Of course it wouldn’t be a proper review if we didn’t try the puddings, so in the name of professionalism, we tucked in to the Lindt white chocolate beignets with vanilla bean ice cream and butterscotch sauce, as well as a zesty lemon tart and a decadent Belgian chocolate truffle cake. The wise words of Oprah haunted my every mouthful – ‘Nothing tastes as good as thin feels.’ She clearly hasn’t tasted the beignets…

Check out the Samurai Platter Sushi Special – R89 and it consists of Samurai Rolls, Salmon Roses, Prawn Nigiri and Tempura Prawn rolls!

Beluga Restaurant
Beluga
The Foundry
Prestwich Street
Green Point
Cape Town
8001

Tel: 021-418-2948/9
info@beluga.co.za

The Duchess of Wisbeach

Cape Town,South Africa
1 comment
By Matthew Sterne on

The Horny Grazer Review

“Just give me a comfortable couch, a dog, a good book, and a woman. Then if you can get the dog to go somewhere and read the book, I might have a little fun.” Groucho Marx

 

The Duchess of Wisbeach is a bit of a conundrum, it’s loud, busy, chaotic – the service was erratic, the electricity tripped twice and they ran out of two of the dishes we ordered. But I loved it all the same.

The bold, pink, front door is flanked by awnings and two large painted cameos of women, one languidly smoking a cheroot. Inside, there’s a great energy – homely, playful and ever so slightly mischievous. Book in advance, or, like us, the only table you’ll be able to get on a Saturday night will be at 9pm. 9pm soon became 9.30pm as the Likely Lad of a host juggled tables and cajoled people into moving to the bar by baiting them with complimentary cognacs.

The place was packed. And it’s not a big place either, so there was plenty of shuffling, squeezing and awkward maneuvering going on in the cosy and superbly decorated bar where an enormous cattle head presides. This was apparently the owner’s father’s (the Duke’s?) favourite cow.  When it died, he had the head stuffed and mounted in memory of the beloved bovine. Behind the marble-topped bar are wooden shelves crammed with bottles, glasses and rows and rows of books. But trust me, this is not the place to come and enjoy a good read.

We sat under a large portrait of Marie Antoinette – just one of the life-size portraits of gracious ladies in flowing gowns. Throw in some crisp white damask cloths, candles in long, silver or pewter candle holders and elegant French antique mirrors and you have a beautifully designed and familiar dining room. Instead of flowers on the tables, there are little porcelain dogs of unusually servile countenance.

The Duchess herself is Theresa Beukes, chef, restaurateur and creator of this idiosyncratic fantasy.  She and designer Craig Kaplan worked together on the design including the raised galley-kitchen overlooking the dining area. From here Theresa keeps a beady eye on her team – she knows exactly what is going on at every table and isn’t scared to bark out an order or two at the frazzled waiters. And don’t be alarmed if you see a couple of small yapper types squirreling around your feet – Theresa has two well-trained Jack Russells, Pipo and Dusty, who follow her around.

The wine menu and the food menu are both gratifyingly small but perfectly formed. Prices are across the board and not excessive. We opted for a bottle of the Raka Quinary at R153 which is a favourite blend of mine. If you feel like splashing out, the Iona The Gunnar is another exquisite red blend coming in at around R250.

The food is magnificent. It’s good, hearty, uncomplicated home cooking.  We had grilled calamari to start which was tasty and tender, as well as a delicious roasted tomato soup with mozzarella toast. We also tried a rather scrumptious dish of roasted onions stuffed with Gorgonzola and wrapped in Parma Ham, served on a bed of rocket and Parmesan and drizzled with a balsamic reduction. Good start.

For all of you fish lovers out there, I was introduced to the Southern African Sustainable Seafood Initiative – SASSI – a project of the WWF which seeks to educate consumers about what seafood they should and should not eat based on fishing practices and whether the stocks of that species can survive the fishing pressures they are exposed to.

SASSI provides a useful little service where you can SMS/text the name of the fish to 0794998795. They will text you back with a colour code. Green is classified as the best choice, Orange species are to be consumed with caution and the Red species are not supposed to be sold, so don’t eat them and be sure to complain if you see them on the menu.

East Coast Sole came back ‘Orange’ which I have decided to interpret as – don’t eat it unless you really want it, haven’t had it for a while and know it’s going to be really delicious. It probably would have been delicious but I opted instead for the beef fillet, feeling equally guilty under the beady glass eye of the Duke’s taxidermied ungulate. Tubby Two had the Sole. In fact he didn’t have the Sole, because after the starter, they told us that they’d run out. They’d run out of the flattened chicken with broccoli and feta as well. So he had the lamb chops, which were the only disappointing dish of the evening. A little on the dry side, but not disastrous.

The fillet was sensational – served with a decadent béarnaise sauce and the best chips I have ever eaten. Ever. I’m not sure what her secret is, but I’m still thinking about those chips. I’m told that the vegetable sides are very good – as well they should be for R35 each – but they’d run out of those as well.

We finished off with a rich cheesecake which was tasty, if a little heavy on the cinnamon.

Despite the intermittent bouts of shambolic service and dubious stock ordering, the food is great and the atmosphere contagious. Don’t go if you want a quiet night and are a bit anal about service. Go with friends, go for the food, dress up – eat, drink and be merry. I can’t wait to go back!

Duchess of Wisbeach
1 Wisbeach Road
Sea Point
Tel: 021 434 1525.
Dinner only.

Nobu Cape Town

Cape Town,South Africa
3 comments
By Matthew Sterne on

The Horny Grazer Review

The Horny Grazer review of Nobu at the One&Only hotel in Cape Town

“Few things help an individual more than to place responsibility upon him and to let him know that you trust him.” Booker T. Washington

If you haven’t been to Nobu in the One&Only, then you’re seriously missing out. All morning I’ve been berating myself for not trying it sooner. The food is quite simply exquisite!

Nobu is a global phenomenon that started as a business partnership in 1994 between chef Nobu Matsuhisa and his partners actor Robert De Niro, Meir Teper, Drew Nieporent and Richie Notar. The original restaurant opened in New York where Nobu drew on his classical training at sushi bars in Tokyo and his life abroad in Peru to create sophisticated and unique flavours.

With Table Mountain framed by the towering glass walls of the Vista bar and a Saketini in hand (Nobu has a selection of very interesting cocktails, the Sakatini contains a heady mix of vodka, sake, plum wine, cointreau and cranberry juice),  I had to concede that life as the Horny Grazer wasn’t all that bad. Suitably relaxed, I made my way down the fan-like staircase into the Nobu dining room. Textured, translucent origami light fittings bring the vast, dark and seductive interior to life. Nobu is a double volume leviathan that works best when it’s brimful of jolly sushi aficionados. And there is absolutely no reason why, like its global brethren, Nobu Cape Town shouldn’t be full every night.

The house red is Meerlust Merlot and the house white is Ken Forrester Sauvignon Blanc. Now that’s classy. And immediately sets the tone for the evening.

If, like me, you like to be in control of your order, then you probably find it rather difficult to place your trust in the waiter, or for that matter, to share your food – but you should. Trust me. The menu is a minefield – you’ll be far better off telling the waiters what sort of things you like and letting them take care of the rest. The service is super-slick (we’re talking little back hand flicks between waiters here) and uber-knowledgeable, so rest assured you’re in safe hands.

Do this and you’ll receive a feast fit for a Samurai. And if you’re worried about price, don’t be shy to ask! Rather ask up front than spend the whole evening fretting about the apoplexy inducing bill coming your way.

There are however a few dishes which, if they tickle your fancy, I suggest you ask your waiter to include…

The yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno dressed with yuzu soy was fantastic – the flavours are so delicate and moreish, while the new style salmon sashimi seared with olive oil and sesame oil and topped with sesame seeds is the best salmon sashimi around.

The tuna sashimi salad dressed with matsuhisa dressing was next up. This is apparently a soy and onion based dressing, but I suspect there may be a few more secret ingredients – it was sensational – I was virtually licking the dressing off the plate much to the chagrin of my boss.

On to the more substantial dishes. You have to try the black cod den miso. The Nobu signature dish and one of the most delicious pieces of fish I have ever tasted – it’s marinated in a sweet miso sauce, then grilled and caramelized giving it a delicate crispness and unique sweetness. Yum!

Another favourite is the pork belly with spicy miso, roasted in the wood oven- seriously delicious.

Nobu is always experimenting with new dishes – one such was the pan-seared scallops with foie gras and sesame sauce. Not an entirely convincing combination. Scallops work well with crispy pancetta as a contrasting texture, but the seared foie gras is just a bit too soft to pull it off.

Bursting at the seams, we were presented with the most immaculate pudding platter that included chocolate fondant with green tea ice cream and a heavenly chocolate tart with peanut butter crumble, vanilla ice cream and warm chocolate sauce. If you’re looking for something a little less rich, the passion fruit brulee with coconut sorbet was sublime.

As if that wasn’t quite enough, you’ll then have to try the exclusive sake collection served in enticing bamboo vials. We tried the Junmai Daiginjo which is a semi-dry sake with a cherry blossom finish. All the sake is exclusively brewed for Nobu by a single producer in Japan – Hokusetsu. As if I needed to develop a taste for another alcohol!

As I stumbled out to the port-cochere feeling very pleased indeed with life, I wondered to myself why Nobu hasn’t been full every night. I think it’s because we’re just a little bit cautious in Cape Town – wary of the big, bold newcomer. We’re reluctant to try out a menu that would confuse even the Pokémon and loathe to believe that a restaurant in a hotel can be anything other than a rip-off.

Well no more! Get thee to Nobu. It’s going to rock your world.

Nobu
One & Only Hotel, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town
Tel: 021 431 5111

95 Keerom Restaurant, Cape Town

Cape Town
0 comments
By Matthew Sterne on

The Horny Grazer Review

“Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication” Leonardo  Da Vinci

A lot of restaurants in South Africa could learn a thing or two from 95 Keerom. Fresh ingredients, simply and expertly prepared.

It’s in a slightly unfortunate location behind the Dubliner off Long Street. Senator House (not a Senator in sight) is an apartment block right out of the drama series the Wire. It’s brimful of Nigerian drug dealers and is just over the road from 95 Keerom. Even the short walk from the makeshift gravel car park feels rather exhilarating. There is something curiously rewarding about seeking out a great restaurant in a dodgy area.

95 Keerom Street, circa 1682, originally housed the stables and slave quarters of the Company Gardens. Many of the original elements, including the façade and brick walls, have been saved in the restoration process. The upstairs area is open-plan and modern, lots of glass, earthen colours and modern wood chair, all centred around a wizened tree. Downstairs is quieter, cosier and more intimate with a series of smaller, face brick dining rooms.

95 Keerom

The secret to 95 Keerom is the ingredients. They source only the best and freshest local and imported products and then do as little as possible to the raw ingredients. Unpretentious and delicious. You don’t have to look much further than the twice daily baked bread and pungent Morgenster Olive Oil to find evidence of this. And you’ll need it to nibble on as the almost comically Italian chef, comes to tell you the saliva inducing specials.

95 Keerom

The signature dish at 95 Keerom is il carpaccio, which comes in a number of enticing guises, including swordfish, tuna and of course beef. Carpaccio is on virtually every restaurant menu in South Africa, whether Italian or not, so you could be forgiven for feeling a little uninspired. But carpaccio is never going to be about the chef’s cooking skills, it’s about the quality of the beef or fish and that is why 95 Keerom sets the standard. I opted for the carpaccio con palmito e parmigiano (with palm hearts and parmesan) which was clean, fresh and delicious.

95 Keerom

For main course, you cannot go wrong with the linefish,” Il Pescato del giorno alla 95”. On my first visit, I had the most magnificent East Coast Sole, butter grilled with sides of spinach and soft parmesan polenta. Again, something that you can get regularly in South African restaurants, nothing new, but this was fresh, plump and perfectly prepared. And if you’ve never been convinced by polenta, then this is place to try it out – when I cast my mind back to 95 Keerom the polenta stirs some rather deep and primitive longing in me. On my second visit, I opted for the Red Roman – not as good as the Sole, but it’s good to see that they will only serve what is freshly available. Horny Grazer Snr (my Dad) had the Gli Spaghetti all Cozze (mussels and tomato), which was rich, tasty and mussely. What more could you ask for?

A soufflé!

Come pudding time, imagine my excitement when I saw a variety of chocolate soufflés on offer. Could 95 Keerom really be Horny Grazer heaven?
No. These are categorically not soufflés. They are chocolate fondants. A poor man’s soufflé if ever there was. There is nothing quite like that sinking feeling when you raise the expectations of a glutton – you tease their salivary glands only to leave them dangling in a peristaltic rage. I was almost moved to tears at the banal sight of a perfectly formed fondant. Misrepresentation at its most culinary egregious. I complained vehemently and told the manager that at the very least the waitress should have managed my expectations when I ordered. He sycophantically agreed, but I note with dismay that nothing has changed. The only cloud on an otherwise silver lining for 95 Keerom.

95 Keerom

If you’re sick of pretentious, over sauced and styled food that is more art than nourishment, then 95 Keerom is the perfect antidote. It’s a great, simple and versatile Italian restaurant, ideal for a business lunch, birthday dinner or an intimate liaison.

95 Keerom
95 Keerom Street
Cape Town

Telephone: +27 21 422 0765
E-mail: info@95keerom.com

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