Tag: Madagascar

By Matthew Sterne on May 12, 2011November 7, 2019

Situated 135 km East of Antananarivo, a picturesque three and a half hour drive along a windy road aptly named the Tokyo Highway, lies the 21 000 hectare Andisabe and Mantiba Reserves. Rice paddies assume the majority of any vacant flat land along the Tokyo Highway which passes humble homesteads, where weekly markets bring the masses to buy and sell everything from second hand clothes to charcoal.

Home to no less than 11 lemur species and a haven for the Golden Safaka; following mass deforestation further West after the discovery of nickel and cobalt, Andisabe is the only place in the world one can see the Indri Lemur.

Andisabe is an inspirational story of triumph and one of Madagascar’s premier wildlife reserves. In a country which has been dominated by political unrest over the past decade, it was a heartwarming experience to return to Andisabe to find that the park has been expanded from its original 816 hectares. A new park measuring 20 000 hectares of primary rain forest have been declared and opened adjacent to Andisabe with a corridor of Eucalyptus connecting the two. Massive restoration and rehabilitation projects are being undertaken in both of these parks; which are attempting to clear alien vegetation and restore the areas to their natural beauty.

I last visited Andisabe in 2001 concerned about the fate of the critically endangered Indri Lemur, whose numbers back then where already well below 100 individuals, just 10 family units. Habitat loss is the primary result of their demise and thus to return to find over 32 Indri families inhabiting a 21 000 hectare reserve was inspirational, particularly when one considers the backdrop under which this conservation project has been achieved.

To say Madagascar is economically poor would be an understatement; it has mass socio-economic problems and with less than 200 000 tourists a year, tourism does not yet offer a viable alternative to the subsistence lifestyle practiced by the masses living in these wild areas. It has been the foresight of this fledgling democracy; which is just over 10 years old and has already had three governmental changes following over 30 years of communist rule, to invest in biological conservation which is truly remarkable.

Visiting Andisabe is however not like your normal African safari; there are no open back Landrovers! In fact there are no roads within these pristine rain forests, so everything is done on foot. Unfortunately, it is also not as organised as your African safari either, so the lodges don’t offer a fully inclusive service. This means you will need to hire and tip your forest guides separately; although €5 is all a guide is going to cost per day, guides are readily available and speak decent English.

You can walk as often and as far as you would like and walks really will depend on individual fitness levels, however one should bear in mind that these are wild animals and thus sightings are never guaranteed. With the Indri Lemur being the only territorial species found in Andisabe, one family has been partially habituated and is seen on the majority of visits to the Reserve but their territory alone covers a number of hectares.

When it comes to accommodation in Andisabe, there are only three available options, however I would strongly or should I say only recommend; Vakona Forest Lodge. Situated in the heart of the corridor linking the two reserves, Vakona Lodge is home to Lemur Island and the perfect opportunity to get up close and personal with these amazing creatures.

Vakona Forest Lodge is not going to win any awards for style or décor, but its setting is spectacular. It is also well priced and the food is very good. The Lodge is also the only property in the area which offers on site activities and nature walks that you can take at your own leisure. The sounds of the forest from barking lemurs to the 100 plus bird species found in Andisabe will have you wondering how you have only just come to discover this place.

For less than €5, Lemur Island is an experience you will never forget. Meeting lemurs that are kept in their natural environment is a bucket list experience.  Lemurs don’t swim; in fact they don’t like water, which is why and how the creation of these islands came about. Currently home to just over 60 lemurs; with five different species, Lemur Island is made up of 4 different islands ranging in size and Lemur Species. This experience makes an exceptional addition to the walks one is able to enjoy in the surrounding Andisabe Reserve.

Contact us to start planning your tailor-made holiday to Madagascar and be one of the first to still experience this forgotten land, it’s mystical people and magical wildlife and unspoilt islands.

Rhino Antisabe Tips

• Hire a private guide for the duration of your stay – ask how long he has been working as a guide in the Reserve – or ask your driver / tour guide to source the best guide for your stay.
• When visiting the main section of the Park; be sure to arrive early, both to catch the Indri which are most active early in the day and to avoid having to share your experience with too many other people.
• When visiting Lemur Island, be sure to get there when the Island opens at 7am – you will receive a Royal welcome. After a day of feeding, the Lemurs become less interactive and head for the trees, so your interactive experience diminishes as the day goes on. Be sure to ask your guide to take you to one of the other islands where you can meet the Ring-tailed Lemurs.
• Set aside at least 2 hours for both Lemur Island and a tour of the crocodile sanctuary. There are a variety of other animal species kept here too.
• I would recommend a minimum of two nights in Andisabe, although three nights is optimal to take in both Reserves and visit Lemur Island.
• Look out for Caramel – The Golden Safaka that has made Lemur Island his home.

By Matthew Sterne on May 10, 2011November 7, 2019

A short three hour flight from Johannesburg will have you arriving in Madagascar’s capitol city; Antananarivo.  Home to just over three million Malagasy’s this is no concrete jungle; but rather a maze of houses and businesses built on top of each other along cobbled roads, some of which are so steep as to seem almost vertical. Any remaining piece of available land has been gobbled up by rice paddies.

Situated in the mountainous interior, Antananarivo was founded inland to prevent attack from passing pirates centuries ago. Unmistakably a past French colony, this city also had strong communist roots. Affectionately known as Tana to the locals it is a city like no other and today is a bustling hive of capitalist activity.

As one of the poorest countries in the world; this hot, humid place, where traffic obeys no rules, and the preferred means of transport is a 1950’s Renault, is certainly not for the conventional tourist. With less than 200 000 inbound passengers a year, Madagascar offers the seasoned traveler something completely different, with unparalleled contrast and natural beauty.

Antananarivo is simply the gateway to Madagascar, offering a unique insight into the daily life and “struggle” of the Malagasy people. Coming from North America or Europe; one needs to be prepared for the poverty, you may encounter beggars at every turn but it certainly is not a destination to be missed.  The informal markets alone, along with the sights and sounds of a bustling informal economy, will make a visit to Tana worthwhile.

Given the limited number of tourists, there are unfortunately not a great number of hotels or restaurants to choose from when staying in Antananarivo and both food quality and variety are often on the shabby side.  While this is no 5 star destination, meals are relatively inexpensive and French cuisine still plays a dominant role in Malagasy hospitality. Fresh fruit and pastries are the order of the day when it comes to breakfast, while local Zebu steak and duck are the most common meat choices.

When planning your Madagascan itinerary, I would certainly recommend setting aside a full day (possibly 2 nights) to explore the city of Antananarivo.  My preferred choice of accommodation is the Palissandre Hotel and Spa which overlooks Avenue Independence and Anakakely Market. The Palissandre Hotel and Spa is perfectly situated for short walks into Tana’s city center but one should take into consideration that Tana is by no means flat.

Antananarivo is a photographer’s dream, with everything from Zebu pulling ox wagons to old French and English architecture dotted around the city. Best of all is that despite the poverty Tana (as well as the rest of Madagascar) is perfectly safe to walk around as a tourist. But as always keep your wits about you and be careful of pickpockets.

Contact us to start planning your tailor-made holiday to Madagascar and be one of the first to still experience this forgotten land, it’s mystical people and magical wildlife and unspoilt islands.

Rhino’s Tana Tips

• Exchange money at the airport on arrival – contrary to the norm this is where you get the best exchange rate.
• Hire a private guide and vehicle for a day – to do a city tour and visit the markets – costs about Euro 90.
• Be sure to visit the main curio market, but be prepared to bargain – about 50 % less than the asking price is a fair guideline.
• A visit to Tsimbazaza Zoo to see some of Madagascar’s endemic wildlife.
• It is law to have your identity documents on you at all time.  To prevent having to carry your passport on you while exploring the city, simply make a photo-copy to keep with you at all times.
• French and Malagasy are the languages of choice and while you can certainly get by in English, a French dictionary or phrase book won’t go amiss.