The Horney Grazer visits Harvey’s in Durban

“Depend on the rabbit’s foot if you will, but remember: it didn’t work for the rabbit”

 

‘In the picture room or the mirror room Sir?’
‘Well I really don’t mind, is one better than the other?’
’ That depends whether you prefer mirrors or pictures…’
‘ Quite. Well I certainly don’t want to spend the evening looking at myself – what if the mirror cracks?’.
‘I’m sure it won’t Sir.’
‘Of course it won’t you little imp.’
Thus began my Harvey’s adventure – terrified of seven years’ bad luck and feeling a tad self-conscious.

Restaurants like Harvey’s actually make reviewing restaurants in Durban possible- without places such as this and the Engine Room Durban would be in a terrible quagmire of papadums and taste bud banality. But that does perhaps carry with it a hint of pretention that Durban isn’t used to.

What strikes you first in this impressive set up is the opulent design – Buffalo heads mingle with brooding wallpaper and leather banquets. Of course the walls are cluttered with portraits and ornate mirrors. Rather misleadingly, several mirrors appear in the picture room which made me feel slightly uneasy and confused. Not really. Outside, the lounge area overlooks Mitchell’s Park where you can laze ensconced in one of the decadent sofas quaffing a glass from the extensive wine selection or enjoying a post-prandial coffee.

The food is exciting and conceptually challenging – moving Durban out of its meat and two veg comfort zone. They started out serving everything tapas style in small portions of four on one large platter. Awkward if there are three of you and perhaps a step too far for Durbanites. Credit where credit is a Jew though, owner and chef Andrew Draper responded to the criticism and has overhauled the menu, reverting to a more traditional style. What I like about Harvey’s is that they aren’t scared to try new combinations, to get out of the box – sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t, c’est la vie. I also love Andrew’s passionate philosophy towards his restaurant:

“I change the menu every six weeks or so, to keep the menu alive. I believe that creating food and menu items is an art, finding the main component, and having the other items complimenting and heightening the main act. It’s a performance, where textures add complexity, where many other characters, like the richness of butter, the chilled wine and the restaurant music and ambience create a stunning performance.”

Starter highlights include a tiger prawn tempura napped in a crayfish cream, paired with shrimp wontons and caviar enriched cream cheese; Thai crocodile stuffed chicken wings, served with a smoked crocodile sashimi and a ginger, chili, pepperdew and feta salad with sweet chilli sauce; and a slow roasted lamb ravioli served on roasted leeks and oyster mushrooms, cooked in smoked butter and topped with deep-fried sage and parmesan – a dish that is worth seven years of bad luck.

Clearly over excited by the lamb ravioli, I knocked over my water glass in a rather ominous portent. I made a terrible mess exacerbating the self-consciousness that was just starting to temper from the heady shiraz. Thankfully the servers cleared the table with indifferent vim and alacrity. The service is exceptional and necessarily knowledgeable. At times however, it felt like we were being served by Little Lord Fauntleroy himself – fawning over us and topping up my wine to the point of mild vexation.

To the mains. For me it was the Greek stuffed quails marinated and stuffed with wild rice, wrapped in vine leaves and roasted, and served on chive and garlic mash with a piquant verjus sauce. We also tried the duck confit with grilled magret served on pak choi, with a sticky red currant and pink peppercorn jus, with pear infused pomme William. Both were delicious. If this is all a bit exotic for you, don’t fret, there are lovely pastas, a beef fillet, as well as line fish on the menu. And if that’s not exotic enough, try the seared ostrich on an intense shiraz, chilli and chocolate reduction, with wok fried broccoli, on a fondant of carrot and cumin puree.

Puddings or Treats as they are known at Harvey’s are well worth saving a little tummy room for. On the assorted berry plate, you’ll find a rhubarb and ginger crème brulee, with a white chocolate and strawberry cake and lightened by a cherry and nougat ice-cream. But don’t go home without trying the chocolate gorgonzola ravioli – deep-fried and napped in a rich Lindt and almond sauce, with an amoretti , chocolate and gorgonzola cheesecake. Mind blowing decadence.

Prices are on the expensive side, especially for Durban, but you get what you pay for. Harvey’s is a must for any visitors to Durban and perfectly situated at the top of the bustling Florida Road. It’s perfect for an al fresco lunch and an ideal romantic setting for dinner. I left feeling very fortuitous indeed.

Harvey’s
465 Innes Rd cnr Florida
Morningside, Durban

Tel: 031 3125706